Hi, and welcome to Line Sheet. Another fashion week, another war.
I arrived in Paris this morning for a Puck private dinner. I’ll be around for a few days and hope to see you as we navigate the canicule, real and spiritual, together. In today’s issue, you’ll find a dispatch from Telfar’s Cortlandt Alley 20th anniversary runway show, an update from our friends at Condé Nast (change is afoot in Europe), and some early notes on the Jonathan Anderson–era Dior marketing strat. (What a guy.) By the way, did you know that Anderson’s first menswear show will take place just hours before the wedding ceremony of Jeff Bezos and Lauren Sánchez, where I guarantee multiple guests will be wearing Dior? As for what Sánchez will be wearing, I investigate that, as well as her dynamic with the fashion industry, below.
Programming note: Tomorrow on Fashion People, my guest is Highsnobiety editor-in-chief (and number one Evan Kinori fanboy) Noah Johnson, fresh from the menswear shows in Milan. We’ll discuss Prada, Zegna, and plenty of other stuff that transpired over the past week. ( Ryan Murphy, etcetera.) Listen here and here.
Mentioned in this issue: Lauren Sánchez, Jeff Bezos, Dolce & Gabbana, Anna Wintour, Delphine Arnault, Dior, Oscar de la Renta, Mark Guiducci, Andy Warhol, Jamie Mizrahi, Kelly Johnson, Loewe’s Tomato Leaves candle, Alaïa, LVMH, Willy Chavarria, Giorgio Armani, and many more…
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Three Things You Should Know…
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- A tale of two Diors: Jonathan Anderson’s first show is on Friday, and the hype machine is up and running. This past weekend, Dior made a very clever move and directly messaged a number of influencers and industry insiders through Instagram’s “Close Friends” function, feeding them inspiration images. I’m sure the Close Friends tactic has been employed by a brand before, but never at this level. On Dior’s Instagram grid, Andy Warhol’s Polaroids of Jean-Michel Basquiat and Lee Radziwill bookended the first still of an Anderson-for-Dior product, his debut rendition of the brand’s famous Book tote. His first bag is printed with a cover of Bram Stoker’s Dracula, designed in a very mean yellow and red. Swipe right on the post, and there’s a “Dior x Dior” version, and a Dangerous Liaisons title sequence in pink and green.It was all, as much as these things can be, thrilling, from the references (familiar but new, the best feeling) to the art direction (the return to the more traditional, lowercase Dior typeface). But while Anderson may finally manifest the long-promised “One Dior” concept—it appears he has maybe, even, dropped “Men” from the menswear line’s name—the transition in the market will inevitably have some bumps. On Sunday, Dior ran a full-page advertisement in The New York Times featuring Maria Grazia Chiuri’s on-sale-now collection with a cherry blossom Book tote at the foreground, and Dior in all caps.
- Another high-level Condé Nast exit: Last week, the legacy publisher announced that Natalia Gamero del Castillo, the managing director of the European business, was on her way out. Gamero del Castillo has been working for Condé Nast since the early 2000s, mostly in Spain, where she rose to C.E.O. of Condé Nast España. For the past five years, though, she’s overseen the entire European operation out of London—through the restructuring, the move out of Vogue House on Hanover Square, layoffs, and plenty more. In 2023, her Condé Nast Holdings Limited reported a “comprehensive loss” of £9.4 million in Europe, while revenue inched down to £245 million from £254 million in 2022. Though the numbers for 2024 won’t be reported until the end of this year, there’s no denying that the going is tough, even as Condé’s direct-to-consumer sales—i.e., digital subscriptions—increase.Gamero del Castillo isn’t the first regional head to leave in the past year. Gill Zhou, whose run at Condé Nast China coincided with hundreds of millions of dollars lost, exited at the end of last year. It’s worth noting that Sherry Lang, Zhou’s replacement in China, reports to chief revenue officer Elizabeth Herbst-Brady, not C.E.O. Roger Lynch. Lots to discuss at the Condé Nast board meeting in July, where Lynch will give a midyear performance update.
- Telfar is 20: The remarkable thing about Telfar Clemens’s endurance in fashion is not the pervasiveness, and ultimate success, of his post-“It”-bag “It” bag, but the fact that he has managed to build such a business without bending to industry norms. Clemens and his partner, Babak Radboy, show when they want to show, distribute when they want to distribute, and market when they want to market. Puck’s ace research producer, Maya Tribbitt, owns several Telfar bags, but she told me that she had never visited the store at 408 Broadway, and never really considered the clothes, themselves, before taking her seat for his show on Saturday night in Cortlandt Alley. “Telfar always felt so online to me,” she relayed.After the practically requisite two-hour wait in 90-degree heat—it was Saturday night after all, essentially a party—Maya and the other guests sat, electric fans in hand, for another 30 minutes as Clemens dispensed more than 150 looks. (That’s a lot.) Maya’s review: “West African influence mixed with pop-art novelty.” She loved all the color, and the live band. The models—cast during a stunt staged the week before, a sort of send-up of America’s Next Top Model—were the stars. With Telfar, though, it’s not about one collection, or really, any collection. It’s about that ability, somehow, to endure.
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And now for the main event…
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The industry news on the wedding of the century is beginning to leak out: Anna Wintour is very involved with the looks of the bride and the groom (though she won’t make it to the Grand Canal) while Jonathan Anderson is debuting his Dior for the real fashion crowd on the same weekend—seemingly a million miles away.
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I laughed a little while reading New York’s recent depiction of Lauren Sánchez’s ascendance. A publicist, who asked to be quoted anonymously, said that Jeff Bezos’s future bride would likely wear Oscar de la Renta or Dolce & Gabbana for the wedding ceremony this weekend in Venice, because “Dolce and Oscar don’t care. They’re dressing the Trump family.”
This seemed like an unsophisticated observation, at best. LVMH-owned Dior—where sales are down double digits this year, according to analyst estimates and my own reporting—also dresses the Trump family, and its C.E.O., Delphine Arnault, attended the president’s inauguration alongside Bezos and Sánchez. Not only do MAGA Republicans wear couture, to misappropriate the old Michael Jordan–ism about sneakers, but in this era of political cronyism and favoritism, everyone needs to play the game—or, at the very least, everyone is playing along. If Sánchez wants to wear Dior, she will. Or Chanel. Or, who knows? An off-the-rack Alaïa?
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The question, really, is whether Sánchez cares. Unlike Kim Kardashian, who spent years ingratiating herself with the fashion industry to earn credibility, Sánchez’s tactic to make the business pay attention isn’t charm or politesse: It’s otherworldly, robber-baron money that doesn’t buy class, but lets her act any way she pleases. She’s not seeking approval, she’s seeking pleasure, and we all know fashion people can be torture.
She’s also already gone right to the top. The influence of Anna Wintour on Sánchez’s choice of dress is real—she was involved, I’m told—but likely overstated. While Condé Nast’s chief content officer often offers support in such circumstances—for instance, if Sánchez did want a custom look from a brand and was getting pushback, I could see Wintour making a call—the reality is that Sánchez doesn’t need Wintour. (As utterly ridiculous as the rumor was late last year that Sánchez, not Bezos, was going to buy Condé Nast, it still underscores the power dynamics.)
Anyway, I’ve confirmed that Sánchez will be wearing Dolce & Gabbana for the ceremony, for the simple reason that she likes it, those guys are nice to her, and Wintour approves. (I’m told Wintour also arranged for Bezos to wear a tux from the Italian brand. Reps for Wintour, Bezos, Sánchez, and Dolce & Gabbana did not respond to a request for comment.)
That means Sánchez will not wear Oscar de la Renta for the ceremony, but will certainly do so over the course of the festivities; I imagine she’ll change
looks, all of which she paid for, more than a dozen times. (I heard that, for one event, the dress code is pajamas.) Remember that Oscar de la Renta’s designers, Monse founders Laura Kim and Fernando Garcia, outfitted Sánchez and her girlfriends for their trip to space. (Never forget Blue Origin.)
What I wouldn’t rule out—and what is almost guaranteed—is a Vogue spread in the coming months. Perhaps even a cover. Although maybe Wintour will throw that one to Vanity Fair, whose new global editorial director, Mark Guiducci, begins June 30. (By the way, if Wintour is indeed attending the wedding—which, according to my sources, she is not planning to—my bet would be that she turns up for the ceremony only.)
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I wonder what Karl Lagerfeld (or Andy Warhol) would have thought of Sánchez. Hers is a very superficial, Hollywood way of approaching fashion; Sánchez appears less concerned with clothes as an intellectual pursuit, à la aristocratic socialites such as Daphne Guinness or quaint couture clients like Danielle Steel. Sánchez has, probably, barely, heard of JAR. For her, it’s about looking glamorous. Or, in modern parlance, hot and rich.
Sánchez works with a variety of stylists, none of whom have industry bona fides, but who have managed to nudge her beyond the typical Fox News personality jewel-tone dresses. There’s Kelly Johnson, a costume designer by trade, who seems to have the primary gig. But now, as Sánchez’s public profile has further increased, she has enlisted Molly Dickson, whose most famous clients are Sydney Sweeney and Keke Palmer. Dickson has a sterling reputation, but she’s not viewed as a heavy hitter in fashion circles.
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Ironically, it’s Bezos who’s getting help from one of the few Hollywood insiders who has managed to convincingly embed inside fashion, too. I’m told that Jamie Mizrahi, who mixes as easily with Nicolas Ghesquière as she does Jennifer Lawrence, advised on Bezos’s wardrobe for the wedding festivities. (Mizrahi could not be reached for comment.)
There’s no denying that Sánchez’s wardrobe has evolved. As her face and body have transformed, her stylists—mostly Johnson—have dressed her in downright inspired vintage Thierry Mugler suits and modern Alaïa dresses that appear to have been poured into the silicone mold that is her body. (Recently, Dickson put her in a vintage John Galliano dress once worn by Sophia Loren.) The truth is, if Sánchez wants fashion to pay attention, and if she wants to land on the cover of Perfect magazine, she could. But she has to want it… and, again, the question is simply whether she actually cares.
Meanwhile, over in Paris, the people who do care will be at Jonathan Anderson’s debut Dior menswear show. Both epics take place on Friday evening, seemingly a million miles apart. Sure, a private jet could probably ensure attendance at both—Dior starts at 2:30 p.m.—but I’m guessing the overlap in guest lists is, perhaps, one. Let’s see which one Derek Blasberg chooses. (Just kidding, money always wins out in the end…)
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The most compelling part of this piece on Bernard Arnault’s current crisis is what the analysts and investors on the outside had to say. One shareholder in LVMH suggested the company do a portfolio review and sell some assets. HSBC’s Erwan Rambourg called Sephora “non-core” and suggested it may not make sense to hold on to it “long-term.” Wow. Not sure I agree, but the point is: People have notes. [ Bloomberg]
Interesting little tidbit: Willy Chavarria has apparently interviewed for the Fendi gig. [ WWD]
Prada brand C.E.O. Gianfranco D’Attis is leaving. [ WWD]
I love this Perfect cover of Giorgio Armani. He looks so human! [ Instagram]
The best press trips have become less for press—or traditional content creators, even—and more for people who can serve as micro-advertisements for the brand. So far this year, Haider Ackermann and Canada Goose, Comme Si, Matteau, J.Crew, and… Kerrygold have all designed outings in this vein. But the award might go to Max Mara, which got Gwyneth Paltrow to show up to Reggia Di Caserta last weekend. [ W]
UTA’s Darnell Strom, whom many of you know because he knows everyone—and reps everyone from Michaela Coel and Jonathan Anderson to Karlie Kloss and Mickey Down and Konrad Kay—is moving to the U.K. to head up the talent agency’s London office just weeks after David Kramer was installed as C.E.O. [Inbox]
Yes to Loewe’s Tomato Leaves candle. Here, the brand’s perfumer explains why. [ Air Mail]
The most disturbing thing I found while reporting on the New York union’s strike threat was how little money much of the star talent earns, which is one of the points my colleague Dylan Byers makes about New York writer Charlotte Klein’s piece on The Atlantic’s recent hiring spree. (Another note: I’d argue that political journalism is more in demand than other kinds of journalism, and garners higher salaries generally.) [ In the Room]
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And finally… I’m over it.
Until tomorrow,
Lauren
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