Hi, and welcome back to Line Sheet. What a week! On Tuesday, I was in Hollywood at Puck’s sensational Stories of the Season event; on Wednesday I skipped Gabriela Hearst and Leslie Fremar’s suit fitting and the Brunello Cucinelli dinner to eat Goodles with my kid (you understand); and then I forced myself back out on Thursday to celebrate the fabulous Morgan Stewart McGraw’s birthday at Bird Streets. (By the way, thanks to power publicist Gabrielle Katz and an under-the-radar Line Sheet reader for introducing me to another members club, Living Room, when I panicked after realizing Gigi’s was closed permanently and I had nowhere to eat alone at the bar.) Tonight, we’re celebrating our friend Craig’s new book at a dinner in Chinatown, and then it’s off to Ojai for the long weekend (happy birthday, Jordana and Rachel). We all need a break, and Sarah “SShapiro@puck.news” Shapiro has devised the perfect Summer Friday read, with thoughts on the smart spectacles surge, what Liz Goldwyn’s archive sale (and others like it) says about the state of the luxury industry, Authentic Brands Group’s takeover of Dockers, and what happens in Montecito post-pandemic boom. Finally, I’m glad you all enjoyed my latest check-in regarding the search for the next Vanity Fair editorial boss. I apologize to the disgruntled reader who was disappointed I didn’t throw Chris Black’s name into the ring. For those of you with the Shoppies: There are two sales everyone is iMessaging me about: Bally and The Row. The Bally sale is hard to search, but if you spend a little time, nearly everything Simone Bellotti ever designed for the brand is discounted on there, in incredibly limited quantities. I’m not really shopping right now, but if I were, I’d probably go for the Beckett top-handle bag in black leather, or this curved-hem navy blazer. (Also, I have these shoes and really like them.) At The Row, the move is obviously the thigh-high Awar boots in black suede to wear with the Corinna skirt. Mentioned in this issue: Gwyneth Paltrow, Ellen DeGeneres, Gigi Hadid, Tory Burch, Madhappy, Jamie Haller, Reformation, Rachel Tabb, Ray-Ban, Warby Parker, Mark Zuckerberg, Everlane, Dockers, Levi’s, Scarlett Johansson, Oprah, and many, many more…

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For over a decade, self-portrait have been redefining contemporary fashion, delivering elevated designs and exceptional quality at honest price points. Founded by Han Chong in London, the brand’s unique and bespoke approach to communication, manufacturing and infrastructure has enabled it to craft beautifully made pieces that are accessible. From intricate lace and knit separates, to denim and eveningwear, self-portrait is committed to creating collections that are designed to be lived in - timeless but always relevant. As the brand continues to grow, its focus remains on thoughtful designs that speak to communities globally. EXPLORE MORE

Sarah Shapiro

Three Things You Should Know…

“They’re Dockers!”: I’ve written before about how Levi’s has been refocusing on their core business (denim on denim on denim), even as they’re still trying to get a slice of the athleisure pie via their acquisition of Beyond Yoga in 2021. Alas, the Dockers subbrand—the Bonobos of the ’90s before slowly becoming a joke—was largely neglected in all of this. But it finally found a home with Authentic Brands Group this week, which acquired the company for $311 million, with a possible $391 million earn-out dependent on performance. The move is classic ABG: Take a heritage brand with waning awareness, give it a makeover, and squeeze it. (See: Reebok.) Levi’s stock ticked up slightly on the announcement.Of course, because today’s workplaces are more denim-centric than ever, it’s possible that Jamie Salter’s management group will finally give Dockers a chance to flirt with denim, too. This week, ABG also signed Centric Brands as the licensing partner to cover categories such as workwear, sportswear, kids apparel, and performance golf. Perhaps a Dockers tech pant in the style of Lululemon’s ABC pants is in our future?
Everlane’s new buzzword: Almost 15 years since Michael Preysman launched Everlane as a “radically transparent” retailer, and nearly one year since Alfred Chang took over as C.E.O., the millennial D.T.C. brand is now trying to make something called “clean luxury” happen. For the rollout, they’ve hired two new P.R. agencies—Lede and Chapter 2—and they’re running a new ad campaign featuring models wandering meadows and watering pants-shaped sod in a grassy field.The “clean luxury” thing is a bit of a head-scratcher. Everlane is neither strictly clean nor exactly luxury. The new clothes still use materials like recycled nylon, polyester, and elastane, which won’t biodegrade. And as for luxury… the word is almost meaningless now, but it would take a lot of explaining to convince someone that Everlane is worthy of the moniker. Reply to this email if you have thoughts on this or how the stores are looking. Expect the new Chang-stamped products later this summer.
Tory Burch’s sweet tooth & other collabs: There were a bunch of launches last week just before Memorial Day sales kicked in. I had FOMO from the Tory Burch x BonBon candy collab event in New York, with charms reminiscent of the Juicy Couture bracelets that flew off Bloomingdale’s shelves in the early aughts. The Tory Burch x BonBon sandals have that marshmallow-y puffed up padding, and the totes look a bit like candy bags. For me, obviously, the real treat is the BonBon candy, which you can order online.Meanwhile, Madhappy’s collab with Guest in Residence—Gigi Hadid’s (actually very good) knitwear brand that’s a notch above everyday basics—is the Los Angeles–based merch brand’s attempt to bring their signature cross-stitch aesthetic to a different part of their customer’s wardrobe. (You can picture the look in prep school hallways.) After Madhappy’s recent partnerships with the Yankees and Crocs, this is a bit more mature. (Grown-ups wear knitted bloomers now, too.) The sportiest merch this week revolved around the cursed Knicks: Check out New York or Nowhere, and Fear of God, which has a subtle sweatshirt in grey with a blue hoodie. (John Starks forever.)

And now, the main event…

The Week in Shopping: Splurging in Montecito & Google’s Smart Glasses FOMO

News and notes on the latest shopping and retail developments worth your time: vintage sales from Liz Goldwyn, the Montecito D.T.C. rush, Google’s Warby Parker collab, and much more.

Sarah Shapiro

The celebrity annexation of Montecito—the Sussexes, Gwyneth Paltrow, Ellen DeGeneres, and Oprah are all at the ramparts—shows no signs of slowing down. And, naturally, retail is following. It seems that a full-blown shopping invasion is imminent, led by premium, founder-led D.T.C. darlings, and made evident, in part, by the weekend queue of Broncos and Bentleys pulling up at the Montecito Country Mart and Rick Caruso’s $2,000-a-night Rosewood Miramar. In recent weeks, Jamie Haller’s first brick-and-mortar store (comfortable loafers, bitchy little heels, pleated trousers) opened at The Post, the Spanish Colonial–style storefront mall developed by the Runyon Group founders Joey Miller and David Fishbein, who are also behind Platform. Other Post shops include Janessa Leoné, whose summer hats were snapped up as the updated Eric Javits country-club-set chapeau of choice, and the second location of RLT, Rachel Tabb’s vintage store, which has proved that the combo of new nice knits and vintage has become an easy sell. Over at Platform, the D.T.C. shoe brand Margaux recently opened as well.

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At the shops at the Rosewood Miramar, there’s more of a Nancy Meyers vibe, where shoppers look at a $3,000 Bottega Veneta bag as an impulse purchase and smaller stores are tucked into converted bungalows. These locations often don’t carry the full line—just a selected assortment of pieces, enough to make the shopper feel as though she’s at a resort, maybe one or two Lorazepams deep, and psychologically miles away from the online shopping experience. Naturally, The Webster, Loro Piana, and Brunello Cucinelli are also on the property. This makeup echoes what we’ve seen in Jim Rosenfield’s Country Marts, including in Montecito, where Florentine jeweler Carolina Bucci is opening soon. Retail, from accessible to upscale, is decentralizing out of traditional malls and into experiential destinations where shopping feels like a vacation, even for locals. The brands opening at The Post aim to create localized, intimate experiences that feel like going through a tasteful friend’s closet, hanging out with friends at a local restaurant, and quaffing sancerre while the kids play. For the brands, the benefit is having a beautiful new build-out that’s ready to be merchandised.

Something Old, Something New

The expansion of RLT—a little vintage boutique across from Erewhon on Beverly that sells Levi’s, Armani blazers, and Calvin Klein slip dresses—to Monteceito might be the most interesting thing happening up there. Every week, it’s clearer that secondhand wares are taking over the closets of luxury consumers and those who aspire to buy luxury. The movement is no more evident than in the rush of celebrity-spearheaded secondhand sales dominating our social media feeds. (Editor and secondhand expert Liana Satenstein has been assisting fashion insiders and celebrities—from Chloë Sevigny and Kim Gordon to Lynn Yaeger, Jenna Lyons, and Laura Reilly—with clearing their decks, and generating plenty of media attention along the way.) This week, Liz Goldwyn—a former “It Girl,” according to a new profile in the Times—is selling pieces from her incomparable collection (everything from early Margiela Tabis to a Saint Laurent taffeta ensemble) after a move to Hawaii. This is the second time Goldwyn has partnered with the L.A.-based vintage shop Archive. (She did a sale there with Liana last fall.) This past weekend, Lauren ran into Liz and her profiler, friend-of-Line-Sheet Marisa Meltzer, while they were at Arcade shooting the clothes for the Times piece. Lauren told Liz that she didn’t understand why anyone would buy anything new when there was pristine Nicolas Ghesquière Balenciaga in this sale. Liz said she hoped that wasn’t true, or Lauren would be out of a job. Perhaps. But it’s not just individuals—brands are also mining their own vaults. Some have resurrected past-season favorites in replica form, like Jimmy Choo, which dropped archive pieces from 1997-2001 (shoppable at Moda Operandi)—perfect timing for the West Village girls cosplaying Carrie Bradshaw. Rebecca Hessel Cohen launched a new LoveShackFancy vintage Instagram account to sell samples and vintage items that inspire the LSF collections. And an inside source tells me a new vintage spot will be opening on Abbot Kinney, from a brand that’s been hoarding thousands of vintage pieces for design inspiration and needs a spot to regularly clear out the sample closets.

Even the major fashion conglomerates are getting into the vintage game. Kering invested in Vestiaire Collective back in 2021, recognizing that vintage and resale isn’t just a trend, but rather an indication of how many people are shopping and thinking about luxury or designer purchases. Meanwhile, Grailed, The RealReal, and intimate spots like Chickees in Brooklyn are hunting grounds for designers and creatives to find pieces that spark something new. If you’re on TikTok, you might also notice an apparently brewing resurgence of “Pucci Girl Summer” from vintage originals, with TRR and Mytheresa both here for it.

Blink

Glasses are the new tech-meets-fashion battleground. Demand for Meta’s Ray-Ban smart glasses is way up, according to Mark Zuckerberg, with 2 million pairs reportedly sold since October 2023. (The company hopes to sell 10 million pairs a year by the end of next year.) Now, in the wake of the Google Glass flop, Alphabet is taking a new approach to eyewear by investing $150 million with Warby Parker: $75 million for development and design, and a $75 million investment in the D.T.C. eyewear brand. Google is making sure to cover different style variations. In addition to the Warby Parker partnership for everyday accessible styles, there’s another with Gentle Monster for a more fashion-forward edge, and smart glasses that are launching in 2026. Pricing isn’t available yet, but it would be a surprise if they were competitive with Meta Ray-Bans, which start at $299. Of course, the whole thing is very Her, in which Joaquin Phoenix sported Warby Parker Begley frames while courting an A.I. Scarlett Johansson. Google has also partnered with Kering, leveraging a more upscale approach for Android XR. Meanwhile, OpenAI just acquired IO, the former Apple designer and iPhone inventor Jony Ive’s device startup, for $6.5 billion. Keep your eyes open.

The Week in Feedback…

On the Vanity Fair search: “I wish Choire Sicha hadn’t taken that CNN job and was going for Vanity Fair instead.” —A Condé Nasty who has clearly never worked with Choire On Kristina O’Neill: “Is she really not a contender? It’s funny because of all those people, she seems the most suited.” —A serious publicist who is not annoying On the Pierpaolo-at-Balenciaga appointment: “The thing is, going for the safe option is also a risk. Dead on arrival.” —An editor Also on the Pierpaolo-at-Balenciaga appointment: “Kering finally made a sound decision.” —A serious consultant On laziness: “I’m not an Inner Circle member so can’t read the story. But I’d like to. Possible?” —A person mentioned in the Vanity Fair story who probably won’t get the job because of this kind of behavior

Have a great weekend, Lauren P.S.: We are using affiliate links because we are a business. We may make a couple bucks off them.

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