Hello, and welcome back to Line Sheet, a Labubu-free zone… for this issue. Also, my friend Claire just told me that people are now calling Rice Krispies Treats R.K.T.s. We are a depraved society. By the time you read this, I’ll be circling over Los Angeles on the way back from Denmark. Below, you’ll find my mini-report on Copenhagen’s shopping scene, from the vast scrunchy assortment at Pico, to the irony-laden redevelopment of a once-vile neighborhood. For the main event, Sarah Shapiro toured New York City, starting on Madison Avenue and snaking down to the Financial District, where she paid a visit to Printemps. In other news, Sarah rounded up the latest launches, collaborations, and store openings, while I share some important feedback on yesterday’s Inner Circle issue, starring the one and only Jonathan Anderson. (By the way, don’t forget to send Sarah all your shopping and retail questions for an upcoming mailbag edition: SShapiro@puck.news.) Mentioned in this issue: Jonathan Schley, Printemps, Gossip Girl, Sigurd Bank, Jenni Kayne, Gap, Staud, Leandra Medine, Becky Malinsky, Ayan Broomfield, Toteme, Isabel Marant, Delphine Arnault, and many, many more…

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Three Things You Should Know…

Danish delight: There’s no place better to shop in Scandinavia than Copenhagen, an incredibly elegant city with plenty of local brands that hold their own on the global fashion scene. After the requisite visit to Arket (think of it as the Old Navy of the H&M group) for my son’s summer wardrobe, I headed over to Mfpen’s corpcore flagship just a block away, where they carry both the men’s and women’s lines. The founder, Sigurd Bank, was an LVMH Prize finalist this year, and he’s created something with real potential to scale, using relatively easy-source deadstock materials to create modestly priced essentials in silhouettes that appeal to Gen-Z yuppies. I bought a pair of low-ish rise trousers in a grey wool suiting fabric that cost well below $300.The store is on Møntergade, right down the street from Bar Vitrine, an elegant, wood-paneled wine bar opened by the founders of home goods brand Frama, local restaurateur Riccardo Marcon, and chef Dhriti Arora (who, of course, used to work at Noma). I was surprised that the Old Town was teeming with good shops and restaurants. Last time I was in the city, about six years ago, my husband and I coined the term “Copenhell” for the main shopping drag, which was too crowded and plain-old yucky. But the area has been redeveloped to appeal to locals and tourists alike—April Coffee is nearby, as is Norse Projects and Time’s Up Vintage. About a five-minute walk from Mfpen is the largest outpost of Pico, an accessories store first recommended to me by Marie Claire editor Halie LeSavage. This place is what you wish Claire’s was: merchandised like an old-fashioned candy shop, but instead of candy, the shelves are lined with rainbow-tortoiseshell hair clips, satin scrunchies, and dozens of hoop-earing SKUs. I went twice to fulfill all the requests of a friend who went googly-eyed after I posted a couple photos on Instagram. A Danish friend who happened to be in town thought it was funny that a bunch of early-40-somethings were interested in what a 21-year-old store for “girls” had to offer. Anyway, Pico must be raking it in: The margins on butterfly clips and rosette hair ties are considerable. Like many Danish store concepts, I could see Pico hitting it big in New York; it’s a refined version of those junk jewelry shops near Canal Street, but the aesthetic is more Maryam Nassir Zadeh than Catbird. Alas, the Dane informed me that most entrepreneurs in the country are limited in their ambitions: Once they can afford a summer house, they’re good. Of course, Ganni is the exception. Hear me out when I say the brand—which is ubiquitous in Copenhagen, with several locations around the city—is the A.P.C. of Denmark. The Ganni aesthetic epitomizes the Danish look in the same way that A.P.C. defines French-casual. (They also both happen to be backed by L Catterton.) Another label gaining notice in the U.S. is Skall Studio, which I was introduced to by the uber-influential Leandra Medine and Becky Malinsky. I stopped by their shop in Indre By and was impressed by the prices and approach to design—their barn jacket, for instance, features a drawstring waist to give it a dressier look. Everything is fairly classic, from the flat-wash denim to the nightgowns, but with just enough attention to detail to convince you that you need Skall’s new version of the old thing. One final note: Thanks to everyone who shared their food and shopping recommendations for this trip (especially Jay, who doesn’t miss). I loved Bar Vitrine for an early-evening glass of wine, Juno the Bakery for its cheese sandwich, and Piola for the casual vibe, but my number one suggestion is Admiralgade 26, one of the chicest restaurants I’ve ever visited. The food and service were both very good, too.
Feedback so good it deserves its own item: I love how invested everyone is in Jonathan Anderson’s appointment at Dior, which I explored in Thursday’s issue, delivered to Inner Circle members only. (If you upgrade now and let me know, I’ll personally forward yesterday’s email to you.) On the matter of whether or not Anderson’s first Dior menswear collection was nixed by Delphine Arnault, several people with whom I spoke said it was, while another person very close to the situation claimed nothing has been presented. One insider pointed out that the show is less than three weeks away, and a campaign has already been shot. Another reader wanted me to explore the fact that Anderson has a direct line to Bernard Arnault. Keep it coming!

Sarah Shapiro

Launches, openings, collabs & more!: For the Bravo-holics among you, the great Andy Cohen is selling furniture from his former West Village Duplex on 1st Dibs, along with items sourced from LGBTQ+ sellers on the platform (yet another example of celebs playing in the secondhand market). Meanwhile, sweats purveyor Madhappy, the LVMH Ventures–backed outfitter of L.A. moms and teens, opened in Nolita this week, with New York–centric collabs featuring the Yankees, the Mets, and Lucali Pizza.

I’m also tracking a seasonal rush of sports-focused collabs. My male golfing friends are giddy about the forthcoming Gap x Malbon collab. On the courts, Veronica Beard partnered with Head for a tennis and activewear collection, modeled by Canadian tennis player Ayan Broomfield—the stylish WAG of American player Frances Tiafoe, who just had a tremendous run at the French Open. Comme Si, which makes a really great loafer sock, debuted a few sports varieties, including a grippy Pilates sock. And while I don’t recommend working out in their sneakers, Converse has a collab with sneaker-wedge aficionado Isabel Marant. You can try them on at Saks’ Isabel Marant pop-up on Fifth Avenue.Also, while bouncing around New York this week, I stopped by the new Zara at Hudson Yards, where the RFID technology at check-out rings up the total when you drop your merchandise in the bin. This weekend, Zara’s new flagship opens at The Grove in L.A., moving from the farmer’s market side to a location near Sephora and Aritzia, right in the heart of the mall.

And now, the main event…

The Week in Shopping: New York State of Mind

A flâneur’s guide to Madison Avenue’s luxury retail fiefdoms, Broadway’s stretch of tween outfitters, SoHo’s arcadian boutiques, and Printemps’ shoe-and-beauty perfection in FiDi.

Sarah Shapiro

A stroll down Madison Avenue, from 86th Street, is like descending through the strata of retail and pop culture history, from the private school uniforms of Gossip Girl and Carrie Bradshaw’s Upper East Side apartment all the way down to the limestone grandeur that was Barneys. Of course, the real story of Madison Avenue—like all New York stories—starts and ends with real estate. Jonathan Schley, the vice chairman of retail at Newmark, told me that the biggest challenge facing luxury brands hoping to establish a presence on the avenue “isn’t rent or demand,” it’s finding a high-quality space. Right now, the inventory shortage is particularly acute. Vacancy rates on Madison Avenue have plummeted in recent years, with availability currently below 10 percent—although commercial brokers are working with brands to pursue off-market deals. The flip side is that there are plenty of stores for your perusal. Down through the mid-60s, you’ll find a host of D.T.C. brands, such as Faherty, Jenni Kayne, and La Ligne. (Beltway fave Tuckernuck will arrive this fall.) You’ll also stumble across what the industry refers to as “contemporary” brands—Staud, Veronica Beard, A.L.C., etcetera—which is shorthand for trend or lifestyle essentials.

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The 69th Street corridor that includes Khaite and Toteme leads right into the designers and luxury brands, which occupy smaller spaces than they once did. The full assortment of inventory that used to be available at large designer boutiques has now been split between uptown and downtown stores. (Part of that, of course, is because of a concerted push to capture a new generation of clients.) This has changed the texture of Madison Avenue’s retail runway, which offers an utterly different experience from the mixed-up arrangements found in more conventional malls and outdoor shopping spaces, where you might find luxury, designer, and accessibly priced lines in closer proximity. This means shoppers are much more intentional: They bypass browsing and advance upon the salespeople with a specific target in mind. It also, somewhat paradoxically, means that location is ever-so-slightly less important. One retail insider told me that the formerly “by appointment only” Attersee (where the cashmere silk tees are a top seller) does as much business from its fourth-floor location as many of the first-floor boutiques in the neighborhood.

SoHo Scrums & The Printemps Edge

Navigating Broadway’s swarm of tweens and harried-looking parents requires fortifying yourself with an espresso, or something stronger—but the experience can still be fun. I wandered into Edikted, the Gen-Z and Gen Alpha standby, where its racks (and shoppers) were packed so closely together that I genuinely wondered if the store was A.D.A. compliant. The Australian brand Cotton On, sandwiched between Edikted and Garage, isn’t that well-known in the U.S., but benefits from being an easy escape from the scrum on either side. It was a nice palate cleanser, and with clothes that are tween-friendly without being too skimpy. I eventually sought refuge on Prince Street, and wandered down its D.T.C. row featuring Everlane, Rothy’s, Vivaia, Faherty, and Marine Layer. For those whose styling is a bit more mature, there are still boutiques and designer brands in the area—think Prada, Kirna Zabête, and Me+Em. Meanwhile, I made my maiden voyage to Printemps in the Financial District, which lived up to the hype. But beyond the baroque decor and grandeur of the overall space, to my merchant’s eye, the shoe department was the highlight. The women’s section overindexes on occasion shoes in a good way. Of course, department stores have to get shoes right, which is why Saks effectively created a whole zip code for their shoe department in 2007, and Bloomingdale’s renovated to follow suit, putting all shoes on the fourth floor. (Merchandising full looks together with the shoes, handbags, and accessories makes it difficult to shop for one category. Otherwise, shoppers have to tour the whole store in search of a bag.)

Beauty is another department where Printemps feels set up to win, with items you might already love and want to pick up on a lunch break (think Victoria Beckham). There’s also French pharmacy items you can’t find everywhere else in the city like PERS, La Rosée, and Nooance. As for the surrounding FiDi neighborhood, it feels like there’s a big opportunity for ready-to-wear. The masters of the universe who work in the district surely need quick-fix outfits for dinners and events—though I guess that’s what Net-a-Porter same-day delivery service is for.

The Week in Feedback…

On Old Navy’s Lindsay Lohan coup: “The person to thank for the insanely good Old Navy casting is Aaron Bakalar. Gap hired him a few months ago to head their casting. Remember him? He was like the first agent for influencers (Annabelle Dexter Jones, etcetera) and then got into casting for Sephora, etcetera… he’s very good.” —A renaissance man On Glossier’s missed op: “This may be harsh, but the reason Glossier didn’t get its exit was greed. They could have sold in 2018 at a healthy return, but they thought they were invincible.” —A person connected to the company On the speculation that Saks Global might be interested in selling a piece of Bergdorf Goodman (Saks denied it): “The destruction of American luxury in plain sight. How will true luxury survive Amazon, ABG, Salesforce, and G-III all partnering with Saks Global? It would be even crazier to pimp out the crown jewel.” —A retailer

Have a great weekend, Lauren P.S.: We are using affiliate links because we are a business. We may make a couple bucks off them.

Puck fashion correspondent Lauren Sherman and a rotating cast of industry insiders take you deep behind the scenes of this multitrillion-dollar biz, from creative director switcheroos to M&A drama, D.T.C. downfalls, and magazine mishaps. Fashion People is an extension of Line Sheet, Lauren’s private email for Puck, where she tracks what’s happening beyond the press releases in fashion, beauty, and media. New episodes publish every Tuesday and Friday.

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