The news that Kim Jones is leaving Dior was finally released this morning. As these neutered types of announcements tend to go, it raised more questions than answers. It’s widely understood that Jonathan Anderson is headed to Dior—or at least has left the Loewe building—and will design both menswear and womenswear. But Maria Grazia Chiuri, the brand’s womenswear designer, is scheduled to produce three more shows: Ready-to-Wear in February; a repeat presentation in Kyoto in April; and then a Cruise show in Rome, her hometown, in May. Will LVMH wait until after Chiuri’s show to announce Anderson? I certainly hope not—that feels like an awful way to drag things out, although there may be a delay given that Chiuri’s next move (Fendi or retirement) is uncertain. However, I was able to unearth some intel that reinforces the open secret of Anderson’s appointment. On September 20 of last year, he established a new company in the U.K. called Noguer Limited, and appointed himself the director. My understanding is this is essentially a holding company for his studio so that he will be able to contract designers directly. Theoretically, LVMH will pay him a lump sum, and then he’ll pay the designers. That way, there’s less tax liability, and also no noncompetes. So if he were to leave Dior or LVMH, he could take his studio with him. (This approach is popular with U.K.-based designers in particular. Jones did it like this, and I’m told Phoebe Philo had a similar setup at Céline.) Notably, Anderson’s holdco was created last September, just as rumors around his appointment at Dior intensified. Also in Paris, WWD is reporting that fashion-insider favorite (and LVMH Prize winner) Duran Lantink is in talks to be the next creative director of Jean Paul Gaultier. Makes sense. I hadn’t heard Lantink’s name, per se, but I was previously told a decision had been made, and that the designer was young, “edgy,” and in dialogue with Gen Z. Now, here’s Sarah…

And now, the main event…

January can be a bleak, punishing month for retailers—who are perennially victimized by post-holiday shopping fatigue, returns, and ruthless inventory management intended to improve E.O.Y. financials. This year, of course, there was the added uncertainty of Trump’s tariff threats and the L.A. fires, both of which diminished expectations. So I thought it was a good time to reach out to some of my top retail sources and get the lay of the land. Sure, there is plenty of doom and gloom out there. One merchant executive at a mass-label men’s brand told me that business fell off a cliff during the last week of December, without a holiday week cushion, and continued falling through January—a lament I’ve heard across the board. (Indeed, a strong early December led directly to a return-heavy January.) And yet, over and over again in my conversations, one outlier emerged: Florida, where retailers privately conveyed their enthusiasm regarding strong January sales. Some retailers are projecting as much as a 30 percent increase in sales year over year from the Sunshine State. And that bump is not due to increased stock levels; instead, by adjusting the assortment of styles on offer, retailers were able to goose the sell-through rate. (Big items so far this year include denim—a great shoulder-season offer—and florals). It’s easy to speculate and oversimplify here. Is this the result of a concurrent Mar-a-Lago boom and blue state swoon? The comparatively cold weather? The preponderance of the Pink trend that I discussed last week? In truth, I have doubts about all of these facile explanations. Winter clothing, which still helps drive the season, is abnormal in Florida, a state where it’s rarely cold, though they did get a freak snowstorm this year. Florida is solidly red at this point, sure, but why wouldn’t its 4.8 million registered Democrats also feel the blues that have allegedly impacted other states? And sure, red-staters might like pink, but so do blue staters: It’s an industry-wide phenomenon. Nevertheless, the pink thing kept coming up in my conversations, for women as well as men—retailers invoked The Breakers, linen florals, resort wear, etcetera. Anecdotal feedback is powerful, but I found some data that flicked at this, too. Beth Buccini, the proprietor of Kirna Zabête, reported that her seven stores and online shops had had tons of success, especially among brands with unique pieces that often feel like collector’s items—Sacai’s new pre-Spring outerwear, Khaite’s Scarlet Cardigan, and various styles from Alaïa. (Kirna Zabête has sold through both flats and the Coeur heels from Alaïa, while almost two dozen styles drove Sacai’s business, indicating the strength of the brand.) Retailers also expressed a lot of enthusiasm about suede, leather bombers, and chore coats. Dôen’s ’70s-inspired suede workwear jacket and their fall Pascaul jacket did incredibly well into the next season. Mytheresa is also selling special pieces and suede, like this Loewe blouson suede bomber. Finally, the Barbour x Erdem collab confirms the durability of the barn and chore coat moment with “fancy x rugged” pairings.

The A.P.C. x Anastasia Barbieri collab (A.P.C. calls them interactions) confirms what we already knew—working with your existing network pays off. As a former Vogue Hommes International editor, stylist, and longtime A.P.C. customer, Barbieri brings an authentic connection that shows up in every piece, from the detailed buttons to the masculine x feminine tailoring that is a signature of both brands. The collection also represents the crossover between insider appeal and a classic brand—the pieces reflect the DNA of both without overreaching. Meanwhile, Toteme has launched a “basics” collection that is hardly basic at all. The name, Garderob, means “wardrobe” in Swedish, and while “capsule wardrobe” is indeed one of the more annoying buzzwords of the moment, we can give Toteme a pass for its Scandinavian self-seriousness… and also for pieces like the collarless leather jacket, suede ballet flats, a trouser skirt, and an everyday work tote priced under $2,000. The brand’s Fall-Winter 2025 runway show this week in Paris only reinforced the collection’s timelessness. With a nod to ’80s neon workout mania, Pucci x Bala collabed on a pair of weighted wristbands, $99 silicone bands, and a weighted jump rope. The weighted vest is the latest workout level-up item, and I’m sorta surprised Bala hasn’t jumped on this yet. As for Pucci, the collab seems to fit perfectly with its marketing strategy, as seen on Instagram: It doesn’t take itself too seriously.

On New York mag’s union versus Vox Media: “If you count the podcasts, mostly Pivot, New York magazine is the biggest driver of revenue for Vox, but it’s also definitely losing money, whereas something like SB Nation is cheap to operate comparatively.” —A Vox insider On the fashion exhibits happening in Paris right now: “I’m at the opening day of the first couture exhibition at The Louvre. The curation is so freaking odd? They have a smattering of gowns randomly placed throughout the first floor? One minute you are in Napoleon’s apartment, and then suddenly there is a Chanel dress with no apparent context? The French can be so strange. There is no real continuity to this exhibition, if you can even call it an exhibition? Meanwhile, on Monday, I went to the Dolce & Gabbana exhibition at the Grand Palais, and that was absolutely spectacular! I definitely recommend seeing the D&G exhibit.” —An investor type On the race for best-dressed talent agent: “Hylda Queally at CAA is the chicest agent.” —A stylist On LVMH’s talent retention strategy: “For LVMH, it doesn’t matter if Phoebe Philo is profitable. It matters that she is off the table for discussions with Chanel, Bottega, Gucci, etcetera. That’s the crux of the whole enterprise, in my eyes.” —An entrepreneur

Until Monday, Lauren P.S.: We are using affiliate links because we are a business. We may make a couple bucks off them.

Puck fashion correspondent Lauren Sherman and a rotating cast of industry insiders take you deep behind the scenes of this multitrillion-dollar biz, from creative director switcheroos to M&A drama, D.T.C. downfalls, and magazine mishaps. Fashion People is an extension of Line Sheet, Lauren’s private email for Puck, where she tracks what’s happening beyond the press releases in fashion, beauty, and media. New episodes publish every Tuesday and Friday.

Puck’s daily art market email, anchored by industry expert Marion Maneker, offers unparalleled access to the mega-auctions and galleries, elite buyers and sellers, and the power players who run this opaque world. Wall Power also features Julie Brener Davich, a veteran of Christie’s and Sotheby’s, who provides unique insights into how the business really works.

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