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Hi, welcome back to Line Sheet. And welcome Sandra Hüller to Chanel. Are there
any ambassadors left to recruit?
In today’s issue, Maya “MTribbitt@puck.news” Tribbitt’s got the scoop on what people are actually buying right now—everywhere from Chloé to Prada to Leset—and explains why Americans love to shop when they’re stressed out about what’s happening in the world. Up top, I’ve got the scoop on beloved GQ writer Sam
Hine’s next act (you really thought I wouldn’t figure it out?) and some recent cullings at Condé Nast. Plus, a crucial H.R. update from Milano.
Meanwhile, Malique Morris returns to debunk myths around the tariff rebates, and unpack what the Heidi O’Neill naysayers thought about the incoming Lululemon C.E.O.’s attempt to convince employees she won’t suck. Finally, the week was rich in feedback.
Also mentioned in this
issue: David Haskell, Maximilian Davis, the Met Gala, Dan Riley, Gabriela Hearst, Valentino, Murray Clark, Roger Lynch, Coachella, Katie Holmes, Adam Baidawi, Miles Pope, Dior, Yigit Turhan, Dua Lipa, Chip Wilson, Vanity Fair, Alexander McQueen, Zach
Baron, and more…
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A MESSAGE FROM OUR SPONSOR
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Four Things You Should Know…
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- Sam,
GQ, and the Condé culling: On Thursday, news got around X that there were layoffs at GQ, where Adam Baidawi, the new global head of editorial content, is settling in. In reality, there were just two layoffs—standard reorganizational stuff when a new editor arrives. (One was a digital-only gig and the other was a sports writer.) At the same time he announced the cuts, Baidawi named Murray Clark to his old job running British GQ and reminded
everyone that there are multiple staff writer positions open. However, there are plenty of other changes at GQ that are, directly or indirectly, related to Baidawi’s appointment: Miles Pope, the longtime fashion editor who works across GQ and Vanity Fair, is leaving at the end of June to work at… Vuori. And most notably, Sam Hine, GQ’s beloved fashion writer, is heading to New York magazine.
Sam announced his
departure to the team earlier this week, but both he and Baidawi wanted to make sure it wasn’t conflated with the reorg news. Look, we all know that Sam wanted the big job at GQ, was passed over, and there aren’t many editorial options left. New York recently started to push further into menswear coverage, developing a stand-alone print product with Dior, and it makes sense that editor-in-chief David Haskell would target Hine: He’s both a talent and an
advertiser favorite. A rep for Condé Nast did not respond to a request for comment. A New York magazine rep declined to comment.
No matter how you spin it, it’s not a great look: Sam, one of several co-hosts of GQ’s Met afterparty, would have been an important conduit for Baidawi, who’s an unknown quantity in the U.S. market. And it’s a bummer that Dan Riley, one of the only grown-up editors on the team, also just left. (Hopefully Zach Baron
doesn’t leave, too!) Anyway, none of it will matter if Baidawi does a good job with the magazine, so now we wait and see.
Over at Condé Nast’s headquarters, there were more eliminations last week, including a couple in the events department. These occurred as C.E.O. Roger Lynch continued on his media tour, boasting about Met Gala livestream viewership. As one insider said to me, “Roger is doing press pretending we are thriving, and there’s no one left.” - So that’s where Yigit is going…: As I’ve mentioned previously, there are many, many C.M.O.-y roles open right now at the big European houses. Today, Salvatore Ferragamo announced that Yigit Turhan, the former Valentino C.M.O. (and Dua Lipa B.F.F.), is joining as chief brand officer. Makes sense on a couple levels: Turhan lives in Milan and wants to stay there, and was also gunning for a broad role similar in scope to the one
he held at Valentino. To me, this also indicates that Maximilian Davis, the Ferragamo designer, is sticking around for now. Turhan will have plenty to do at Ferragamo, whose image isn’t matching up with the quality of Davis’s work. I’m sure we’ll have more news soon on the C.M.O. front.
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A MESSAGE FROM OUR SPONSOR
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| Malique Morris
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- Tariff refunds roll
out: The U.S. government has begun doling out refunds for the tariffs the Trump administration imposed last year, duties that the Supreme Court ruled illegal in February. About 333,000 businesses are expected to recover around $160 billion, and some companies started receiving partial refunds on Wednesday. “Just crossing my fingers that we’ll get something back—clearly the impact has been monumental,” a U.K.-based brand owner told me. “But certainly not expecting to
see a sausage! Brutal times.”
Meanwhile, consumers want their cut, too. Customers have already sued brands including Ray-Ban and Nike, arguing that any rebate should ultimately flow downstream to people who paid inflated prices. Untangling who deserves reimbursement is going to be an enormous headache for everyone involved. If there’s a silver lining, it’s that some companies have emerged with more streamlined post-pandemic supply chains. - Lululemon
leader leans in: Incoming Lululemon C.E.O. Heidi O’Neill addressed internal critics of her appointment via a prerecorded video at the company’s leadership summit in Vancouver this week, Bloomberg reported. “Since the announcement, some people have been underestimating me. Some have been
underestimating Lululemon,” she said. “That’s fine. We’ll let the work answer.” O’Neill can’t start until September because of a noncompete with Nike, where she spent 27 years, so this was likely the next best thing she could have done to get in front of her new team. I’m told that attendees greeted the message with cautious optimism. “She came across as strong in the video, and she addressed the doubters, which landed well,” one said. “People seem to be looking at her upside.”
As I
recently reported, O’Neill’s time at Nike was complicated. Her main job at Lululemon—where a proxy battle with estranged founder Chip Wilson is raging—seems deceptively simple: Can
she make it cool again?
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Under a cloud of economic anxiety, the latest shopping data shows that consumers plan to
break out in fashion that feels comfortable, escapist, and faintly indulgent.
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There’s a low-grade panic hanging over consumers right now—about the economy, politics, travel costs, the
general state of everything. And yet, as positive numbers at brands like Gucci and Dior indicate, shopping remains a form of anxiety-reduction therapy here in the U.S. Case in point, the Chloé Nama—did you even know Chloé still makes this sneaker? The one Katie Holmes used to wear all the time?—landed in April’s top 20 list on ShopMy, the influencer-inflected digital
storefront. It turns out that consumers are still dropping around a thousand bucks on the chunky-soled artifact from Gabriela Hearst’s tenure.
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As always, ShopMy shares its data exclusively with Line Sheet, giving readers a look at what people are
actually buying via affiliate links. This month, what stands out immediately is the wild mix: The list swings from reliable ShopMy incumbents Leset and Tecovas to indie stalwart Clare V. and mega luxury brands including Prada and Bottega Veneta. Consumers are still trading up, but selectively; they want utility, but with something extra that justifies spending slightly above their comfort zone. (Note that ShopMy’s monthly top 20 reflects the affiliate links that drove shoppers to retail sites
where purchases were made—not necessarily the items they ultimately bought.)
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The loudest data point here was pants. Three of the top five products were lightweight, relaxed trousers,
further confirming that people aren’t ready to return to restrictive dressing. (Will they ever be?) Leset’s Kyoto Carpenter Pant ($280) took the top spot, followed by Donni’s Taffeta Drawstring Cargo Pant ($436). Meanwhile, La Ligne’s Colby Pant ($325) made the ranking for the fifth consecutive month. That’s no fluke: The market has decisively moved toward soft tailoring that works across work, commuting, school pickup, and dinner parties. Essentially, pants that feel like leggings but cover your butt in a classier way.
Footwear is similarly,
almost uncomfortably, ridiculously casual. Flip-flops are once again vying for sandal of the summer. Gen Zers may be pushing square-toed Havaianas on TikTok, but ShopMy shoppers skewed slightly more expensive this month. Black Suede Studio’s
Crystal Jeli Flip-Flop ($150) cracked the ranking. Margaux’s Palermo Sandal ($335) has a more structured finish. Elsewhere, practicality continues to win, like Freda Salvador’s
Sera Fisherman Sandal ($460), with ankle straps and semi-closed toes.
And guess what? Y’all still want cowboy boots. Tecovas’ Annie ($375) continues to over-index beyond Coachella and Stagecoach. According to a ShopMy source, creators on the platform shared the style more than 3,000 times. The only
proper sneakers on the list (APL’s Veil and the Nama) both have arch-protecting soles, while only one shoe in the bunch, a Prada pump, featured an actual heel. Why did Prada’s shoe and Bottega’s sunnies win? Well,
everyone wants a white pump these days, and Prada makes the best shoes. As for Bottega—the aviator silhouette is just exactly what people want right now.
Indeed, it’s clear that people haven’t stopped spending. They’ve just become a bit more rational about what deserves their money. Airfares are nuts, and hotel prices are worse—a four-figure pair of sneakers feels like a bargain these days.
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On the proliferation of the
Phoebe Philo salt-and-pepper suit: “I have it also, and this made my day. I live in D.C., so it’s highly unlikely I’ll see others wearing it. Some stereotypes are true.” —A writer
On WeTransfer’s backing of the new film about Isabella Blow and Alexander McQueen: “WeTransfer has weirdly funded a lot of very good art and especially short films. It’s so random, and I’m not sure if they get any credit for it, but I do think designers and artists are their main customers.” —An entrepreneur
On A.P.C.’s
troubles: “Great read on A.P.C. I liked the new campaign a lot—especially as it got back to the denim as the source point for the brand’s equity. Not perfect, but an acknowledgment that the Petit Standard was special, without it just being a nostalgia play. Hoping for a good turnaround.” —A marketer
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Have a great weekend, Lauren
P.S.: We use affiliate links because we are a business. We
may make a couple bucks off them.
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Puck fashion correspondent Lauren Sherman and a rotating cast of industry insiders take you deep behind the scenes of this
multitrillion-dollar biz, from creative director switcheroos to M&A drama, D.T.C. downfalls, and magazine mishaps. Fashion People is an extension of Line Sheet, Lauren’s private email for Puck, where she tracks what’s happening beyond the press releases in fashion, beauty, and media. New episodes publish every Tuesday and Friday.
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The industry’s go-to source for unflinching reporting on the trillion-dollar business of artificial intelligence - perhaps the
single most important technology of our time. Ian Krietzberg, the powerhouse journalist behind The Deep View, delivers twice-weekly insights into the latest dealmaking and breakthroughs in A.I., and how the intersecting worlds of finance, entertainment, media, and politics are being transformed in its wake.
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