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The Calvin Past-Present Conundrum

Calvin Klein’s much-hyped runway show, its first in seven years, celebrated the brand’s minimalist history. But was it anything more than a splashy retrospective?

Veronica Leoni
Leoni’s debut was, however, a new day for PVH, Calvin Klein’s parent company, which is much more invested in the business of jeans and t-shirts and underwear, often via a partner, than designer clothes. Photo: Courtesy of Calvin Klein Collection
Lauren Sherman
February 10, 2025

Technically speaking, the Calvin Klein runway show that took place early Friday afternoon at the company’s headquarters off Seventh Avenue happened. Yes, it happened in the sense that there were celebrities in the front row and that the 82-year-old Calvin Klein was there, posing with his ex and longtime muse, Kelly Klein, alongside Kate Moss and Christy Turlington. And it happened in the sense that clothes came down a runway. It also happened in the sense that editors flew in from all over the world to support Veronica Leoni, the new creative director, who is based in Rome and firmly established in the European network.