The Two Popes

Hill-Stone Museum
Hill-Stead sits somewhere in the middle of the spectrum of monuments to 19th century collectors. It’s more remote than the Frick, two hours away in Manhattan, and yet not quite as far flung as the Shelburne Museum in Vermont. Photo: Lam Photography
Marion Maneker
June 3, 2025

Anna Swinbourne’s eyes lit up when I mentioned the lack of great art in places like Newport, where the Gilded Age elite built their grandiose homes. We were having coffee on a misty recent morning in the formal garden of Hill-Stead, the former Connecticut home of Cleveland industrialist and pioneering impressionist art collector Alfred Pope. Naturally, we were discussing Miramar, the billionaire Stephen Schwarzman’s home on the Cliff Walk that the alternative asset sky lord has stocked with 18th century treasures. “He should come here,” Swinbourne said, gesturing back to the house that Pope’s daughter, Theodate Pope Riddle, built for him and his art collection. At the tail end of the robber baron years, Pope’s fortune was no less impressive than the ones that fueled the building in Newport. “He would see how a great collector actually lived with his art.”