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Much ink has been spilled on the decline of the wine market, with younger generations, in particular, drinking less and less. Whereas the media once proselytized about the health benefits of a daily glass of red—along with similarly convenient theories about dark chocolate—a counternarrative has since emerged that posits no amount of alcohol is safe. The retail wine industry is suffering the effects, exacerbated by macroeconomic factors, inflation, and more competition for consumer dollars. “There are headwinds,” master of wine Vanessa Conlin told me, “but people have sold wines through world wars.”
