This year, fashion’s annual self-celebration was grander, more political, and mostly a success. Herewith, the best dressed, biggest disappointments, most brain-dead, and more.
I typically cringe when women wear ties (except for Willa). But I approve of Lauryn Hill’s maroon version, probably because of how she managed to layer it under a sculptural necklace.
Photo: Lexie Moreland/WWD/Getty Images
I’m not sure I’ll ever wake up the day after the Met Gala thinking the red carpet was awesome. (Philosophical dress codes are always hard.) However, this year’s party—which, as I reported on Monday, raised at least $31 million for the Metropolitan Museum of Art’s Costume Institute—was unique. Remember, the title of the exhibition is Superfine: Tailoring Black Style, based on Monica Miller’s 2009 book, Slaves to Fashion: Black Dandyism and the Styling of Black Diasporic Identity. There were far more Black designers worn by celebrities, and far more Black celebrities present, and diversity unequivocally makes things more interesting.
On a more granular level, there were 12 Fear of God looks, 11 Ozwald Boateng, 10Sergio Hudson, and eight Wales Bonner. All amazing numbers for an independent designer. Costume designers Ruth E. Carter and Paul Tazewell also created custom pieces. The kindsof celebrities who showed up were different, too: More than 20 professional athletes attended—from Lewis Hamilton to Joe Burrow—and yes, Kamala Harris was there, dressed in Ib Kamara’s design for Off-White, although, as I predicted, she didn’t walk the red carpet.
However, the political and racial charge of the proceedings changed the tone of the gala, and I’d argue mostly for the better. There was also the André Leon Talley of it all, which complicated things further. Andrew Bolton, the Costume Institute’s head curator, noted that he first thought of exploring the subject after Talley’s death in 2022. At the time, Talley was 73, in financial ruin, and publicly distraught about how many of the people who were once his friends had treated him. (The writer and fashion industry fixture Bonnie Morrison speaks about this eloquently in a recent episode of Fashion People.) There were plenty of genuine nods to him on the carpet and beyond, including Colman Domingo’s cape, and the silk dress that Zac Posen designed for Laura Harrier to wear to the afterparties (it was printed with Talley’s Alice Springs(a.k.a. JuneNewton) portrait from 1989). In some ways, though, it felt too late because he wasn’t around to witness it. What happens to this diverse group of invitees next year when the exhibition is not primarily about the style of Black men?
But back to the clothes. Despite all the good things—and looks—that came out of the night, you got the sense that many of the people who attended had never read Miller’s book. (Or at least had their assistants make some notes.) Overall, I was disappointed by the lack of ability, or desire, to think critically. “Tailored for You,” the evening’s theme, did not only mean suits, and dandyism should not be reduced to pinstripes. Herewith, my opinions on who won (and lost) the evening, in superlative form…
The Winners
Best dressed: Lauryn Hill in a sunny yellow Cheney Chan hybrid suit-gown creation, accessorized with a peacock blue Hermès Kelly. I typically cringe when women wear ties (except for Willa). But I approve of her maroon version, probably because of how she managed to layer it under a sculptural necklace. She is remarkable and has incredible personal style.
Best showing of an LVMH brand: Speaking of personal style, everyone who was wearing Marc Jacobs looked great, including Tracee Ellis Ross, Rihanna, Colby Mugrabi, and Valentina Ferrer (this would have been what I’d have wanted to wear). Jacobs, himself, really went for it in his own curved-shoulder design. Other LVMH shout-outs go to Zendaya and Jeremy Allen White in Louis Vuitton (both looked… hot) and Cynthia Erivo in Givenchy.
From left: Valentina Ferrer, Tracee Ellis Ross, and Rihanna.Photos: TheStewartofNY/GC Images/Dia Dipasupil/Getty Images
From left: Valentina Ferrer, Tracee Ellis Ross, and Rihanna.
Best indie designer showing: This goes to British designer Ozwald Boateng, whose creations for Henry Golding, Tems, Colin Kaepernick, Burna Boy, and others fulfilled the brief like none other. An honorable mention should be bestowed upon Grace Wales Bonner, one of the most thoughtful designers around, who proved this weekend that she is a force.
Best stylist-celebrity collaboration: Both Law Roach and Zendaya (the best she’s ever looked), and KarlaWelch and Tracee Ellis Ross. Roach and Zendaya have reached the peak of their powers, and Welch and Ross genuinely have fun together. It’s worth noting that Roach worked with Burberry on putting its table together, and the results were impressive. There’s a lot of money being exchanged between stylists and brands, and brands and celebrities, and celebrities and stylists—and when it works, it results in some of the best marketing in the world.
Biggest disappointment: I love that KimKardashian wore Chrome Hearts. She, and it, are quintessential Southern Californian brands. But it looked bad. There will be “Have we reached peak Kardashian?” think pieces pegged to this outfit. However, I still have hopes for Kardashian’s budding relationship with stylist Jahleel Weaver,which I first reported about last week.
Supporting Players
Luckiest brand on Vogue’s livestream: eBay! The online marketplace, which has been working with Vogue (and Condé Nast) pretty consistently for the past few years, got multiple organic(ish) mentions from the likes of EmmaChamberlain (who sourced one of her multiple looks on eBay) and Law Roach (who said he found his accessories on there). Jeremy Pope, who was styled by Roach, wore trousers from the marketplace, while Chappell Roan enlisted Wicked costume designer PaulTazewell, who found her pink suit. On top of the Met Gala sponsorship and the Condé Nast advertising, eBay also did sponcon with Chamberlain a few months back and an online ad with Pope and Roach earlier this week. The company is really trying to catch up to go-to seller The RealReal in terms of sentiment with the fashion customer.
Best Chanel: Ib Kamara. The stylist, editor, and Off-White creative director was the only person whose Chanel looked truly styled and lived-in. (The others were mere costumes.) It was a great preview of what Matthieu Blazy’s Chanel could be. At least in terms of attitude. (And yes, I, too, suspect they will launch menswear.)
Biggest indication that the world really has changed: SamiraNasr, editor-in-chief of Harper’s Bazaar, attended the gala and walked the red carpet. It’s probably been 25 years since an editor from a Hearst publication was invited by one of the chairs to attend what was then known as the Met Ball. (Remember, Wintour and former Harper’s Bazaar editor-in-chief Liz Tilberis used to trade off hosting in the 1990s.) Anyway, Nasr—who looked beautiful in Michael Kors—and Wintour have a good relationship (Nasr had an early-career stint at Vogue), but this was still something.
Best reveal: Colman Domingo’s mixed-print Valentino suit under the cloak.
From left: Ib Kamara, Colman Domingo, and Laura Harrier.Photos: Angela Weiss/AFP/Dia Dipasupil/Michael Buckner/Penske Media via Getty Images
From left: Ib Kamara, Colman Domingo, and Laura Harrier.
Most pleasant surprise: Laura Harrier in Gap Studio. Despite my continued reservation that Zac Posenis not the right person to be leading brand development efforts at Gap Inc., heis a magnificent red carpet designer.
Most brain-dead choice: Hailey Bieber in an “Aritzia manager” suit jacket dress. Perhaps this is the end of corporatecore? That was fast!
The thing Joan Rivers would have hated but was awesome: Andrew Scott in Giuliva Heritage. (Great color story.)
Most inappropriate person to pose for pictures on the red carpet: Stan Duncan, Condé Nast’s chief people officer. But why else take that job?
Correction: A previous version of this piece stated that Lauryn Hill’s Met Gala look was designed by Stella McCartney. This is incorrect. It was designed by Cheney Chan.
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