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Ssense and Sensibility

For the no-counter-culture generation, the Canadian retailer established itself as a place to discover new brands, and rode high during the pandemic e-commerce boom: The company was valued at $4 billion, growing in China, and seemingly flirting with an I.P.O. Four years later, though, the market has changed, and tariffs aren’t going anywhere. At some point, something has to give.

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Rami Atallah
For the no-counter-culture generation, Ssense became a place to discover new brands: The Atallahs have exposed brands and designers like Marie Adam-Leenaerdt, Nensi Dojaka, and Mfpen to a whole new group of people who wouldn’t otherwise have heard of them. Photo: Madison Voelkel/BFA.com
Lauren Sherman
July 17, 2025

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Walking the floor of the LVMH Prize semifinal tells you a lot about the current and future state of the fashion industry. For the past 12 years, more than a dozen competing designers have convened for just a few days in a large exhibition space at the front of 22 Avenue Montaigne—each standing beside a rack of their clothing, explaining exactly what they stand for and why. There’s plenty betrayed in everything from the techniques employed to the materials sourced, but I am always most fascinated by their answer to my simple question: Where are you selling?

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